Prosit to Prosecco! On Sparkling Wine and Geographical Indications

Since its 2009 adoption of ‘Prosecco’ as a geographical indication (‘GI’) for Italy, the European Union (‘EU’) has sought, and continues to seek, its protection worldwide. Australia, itself a sizeable prosecco producer, has opposed this movement, because it recognises Prosecco as a grape variety, rather than a GI. The grape variety objection has since dominated critique of the EU–Australia stand-off. However, it is only one aspect of the wine GI regime, which includes various rules and exceptions, as well as important interplays between national, supranational (EU) and international levels. This article considers the object and purpose of these multi-level regimes in their determination of GIs, as well as permissible exceptions to wine GI status. It offers a holistic understanding of the wine GI regime and its application to Prosecco. In doing so, it brings to bear the conflicting approaches to wine GIs that will make it difficult to reconcile the EU and Australian position on Prosecco, even with the help of international law.